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But there’s a by-the-numbers quality that makes you yearn for sparks. A massive pork chop ($40) with fennel-tinged escarole feels like an edible still life. Meaty halibut ($41) with earthy mushrooms and potato puree is crowd-pleasing, not creative. And Gotham’s overdone duck ($40) with boring quinoa and tame port sauce elicits yawns.